Hungarian Parliament 2.0 and Christmas Party

Only 2 days after my trip to Parliament to as an American Fulbright representative, all of the Fulbrighters in Hungary came together for a tour of the Parliament. It was fantastic! During the first trip, we went through several layers of security before heading to a meeting room. We saw only the staircases and the hallway, and they are beautiful on their own.  Dan and I were glad to see more of the building on Friday December 12.

First of all, it was a special day because it was our last event for the semester. This was also our last opportunity to see the professors and scholars who were only here for the fall. The Parliament was a perfect end to the year. This time we entered through the recently built underground entrance for tourists. By being underground, nothing obstructs the view of the building. When it was our turn to enter, we went through the security checks and walked up several flights of stairs. These were the same stairs I had used on Wednesday. The design of the windows, walls, and ceiling are lovely in the staircase.

Beautiful windows and golden arches.

Long hallway down to the center of the building.

Looking through the beautiful windows, a view of the Ethnography museum across the lawn.

When we reached the main hall, it was breathtaking and stunning! Only special guests and dignitaries get to enter through this area.

Here is a photo of the Fulbrighters in attendance.

The next stop was the area under the dome. It is by far the most beautiful room of the Parliament, so of course we were not allowed to take pictures. This is also the home to the crown jewels of Hungary. The jewels have two constant guards around them at all times. Here is a picture of the crown that I found on the internet so you can see what it looks like.  This picture shows the crown and the orb with parts of the scepter and the sword.

The crown is incredibly detailed. We were only able to see it for a few seconds. I hope I can go on a tour again before we leave. After the dome section, we went into a room where reporters can wait before special news or interviews. There were several statues representing various types of work in Hungary. I enjoyed this statue of a hunter with his horn and his dog.

Our last room was the hall where the Parliament actually gathers. It was very beautiful. Here are a few photos. This first photo shows the front of the room where the leaders of the Parliament sit.

This is the ceiling of the hall.

Here, you can see the desks where the members of Parliament sit. They each have digital voting devices.

After our tour inside, we moved outside to view the statues around the Parliament. A former Fulbrighter to the United States shared the significance of each statue.  My favorite part about all of the statues is that they depict the history of Hungary with great detail. Hungary is rich with history and they are proud to tell it through their statues, architecture, and art. 

To conclude our tour, we took a group picture outside the Parliament. It was a wonderful tour. 

Following the tour, we headed to the Fulbright office for our Christmas party. We did a white elephant gift exchange and we had a great meal. It was a wonderful celebration of our time together so far. Dan and I will definitely miss all of the scholars and professors who are heading back home. They are interesting and inspiring and I hope our paths cross again some day! 

Hungarian Parliament

On December 10, I had the honor of representing the United States and Fulbright during a visit to the Hungarian Parliament. A group of 9 Fulbrighters visited with MP and President of the Foreign Affairs Committee, Dr. Zsolt Németh. There were five US grantees to Hungary, and I was one of them. Here we are before the meeting:

Left to right: Dr. Mary Durfee, Dr. John Cox, Hanni Thoma, Megan Small, and Jan Wessel.

There were also 4 Hungarian grantees to US who have recently returned to Hungary.

Left to right: Tamás Csapó, Anna Péczeli, Dr. Károly Jókay (Executive Director of the Hungarian-American Fulbright Commission), Dr. Katalin Parti, and Dr. Marcell Szasz.


The meeting was a great experience! Dr. Németh shared some of his thoughts on the importance of the Fulbright and connections between the United States and Hungary. He pointed out the benefit of sharing all of the positive aspects of Hungary with the world.  I thought to myself, "Good! That is what I'm here to do!" Each of us had a few minutes to speak about our work and how we are making connections between our countries and cultures. I was proud to share my love of Hungarian music and how I plan to share it. Now that I am in Hungary, I see so many opportunities for further research. No matter where my life takes me, I know that I will always have a passion for Hungarian music and I will continue to study and share it.

Here is a picture of the group with Dr. Németh (in the center).

We also posed for a quick picture outside of the Parliament. It was a successful day for Hungarian-American relations!

Bécsi Philharmonikus

WOW!!! Tonight (December 7 - sorry to take so long to post!), Dan and I went to see the Bécsi Filharmonikus (Vienna Philharmonic) at the Művészetek Palotája (Palace of Arts) here in Budapest. This concert was a tour concert for the ensemble and the conductor was Michael Tilson Thomas from the San Francisco Symphony.  The concert was amazing!!!!

Let me say that I was excited for this concert for many reasons.

The venue:
This concert took place at the Művészetek Palotája, the Palace of Arts.  This new building is a beautiful structure south of the city center of Budapest yet still situated on the Danube. The hall was only built in 2005.  One of my favorite parts about the building is that the lights on the outside change color at night! This photo shows when it was purple.

The music:
The program included Johann Baptist Vanhal's Double Bass Concerto followed by Gustav Mahler's Symphony No. 5.  This particular symphony is a favorite among horn players because of the Corno Obbligato part and the numerous tutti sections.

The orchestra:
The Vienna Philharmonic is one of the absolute best orchestras in the world. They have a long tradition of style and high quality. There is so much to say about them that I cannot include it all here. Please check out their website. http://www.wienerphilharmoniker.at/

The horns:
The horn section of the Vienna Philharmonic is unique because they play their own style of horn.  No other orchestra in the world uses this horn. From far away, it may look the same as other horns but it is dramatically different. On horns like mine, the valves are next to the keys which are moved by the left hand. On the Vienna horn, the valves are at the opposite side of the horn. Here is a picture.

The Vienna Horns have made a few recordings which I love. Here is a video so you can see and hear the horns. (Feel free to click on other links that pop up for the Vienna horns. I promise you won't be disappointed!) 

The conductor:
I don't really follow conductors but I still have a few conductors which are my favorites. I will admit that I don't think about conductors when I am listening to a recording, only when I am watching a performance or a video. I first saw Michael Tilson Thomas several years ago when I watched one of his video programs, Keeping Score.  In this series, he goes beyond program notes to break down the music and its history. These videos are very inspiring. Michael Tilson Thomas' style is clear, friendly and sophisticated. I was excited to see him conduct in person.



All of this excitement before the concert added to the emotion of the performance. Dan and I treated this evening as a special date. All dressed up, we went out to eat supper at a nice Indian restaurant near our apartment before the concert. The weather was cold, rainy, and gloomy but we were ready to pop with excitement, especially me.

The Concert:
The first piece, Johann Baptist Vanhal's Double Bass Concerto, was a great opening selection. The soloist was bassist Ödön Rácz, member of the Vienna Philharmonic. The piece was light and charming. My favorite part were the highest notes played by the soloist. The harmonics rang throughout the concert hall. He did a wonderful job!

The showstopper, Gustav Mahler's Symphony No. 5, was the highlight of the evening. I will admit that I cried through the performance and was even shaking at times. Dan can confirm this. This concert was the third time that I've heard Mahler 5 live. I don't know if I've heard any other piece more often. The Vienna Philharmonic was exceptional!

I hope I can put my feelings about the concert in words. It was perfect! (Let me say too, though, that I honestly heard a chip in the horns and even someone's phone went off during the quietest moment-Ugh!) Still, this was the best performance I have seen in my life. Here's why:

The blend:
The horns, and every section, blended so well. (FYI, I am probably going to use the horns for all of my examples). Each chord was full as each horn player played with the same dynamic. No one player sounded more prominent than another. Beyond just the horns, the instrumental groups blended extremely well. The brass instruments all came together in a glorious choir of unity. Speaking of unity...the unisons! I was amazed by the unison tone of the horn section. There are several tutti passages for some or all of the horn section. Their individual sounds melted together to create a majestic and heroic horn beauty. I loved it!

The passing and sharing:
One thing that music ensembles work on is developing the ability to pass notes or melodies. I have never heard a better example than the Vienna Philharmonic. In the horn section, this kind of playing happens frequently for the assistant horn. The assistant helps the first horn by playing taxing sections and passages just before and after a prominent solo. It is not a glamorous job but it requires amazing skill. For example, the horn solo in Mahler 5 includes a lengthy loud passage which ends with a long whole note. As the soloist reaches the end, the assistant sneaks in on the whole note and holds it so the soloist can stop and rest. This requires matching pitch, dynamic and tone. The horns in the Vienna Philharmonic did this well. Another example of passing is when a melody is made by combining notes across several instruments. For example, the horns play 123, the violins play 456 and the flutes play 789. Together, the melody is 123456789. Just as in a single section, this kind of music requires matching pitch, dynamic, and tone. Now, however, it is even more difficult because you must work together with the other instrumentalists to create a complete musical phrase.  I could hear each section of instruments pass the melody between each other as if they were all on the same wavelength, and I'm sure they were. One book that I love, Barry Green's The Mastery of Music, talks about connecting with other performers in a way that our minds and bodies are all communicating. I can't remember the term he used, and I don't have the book here with me in Budapest. However, I could sense that incredible unity across the orchestra. I can't think of any other time that I've seen or heard that connection. It made the music so much more powerful. It was clear that the orchestra was an ensemble, working together to make the music. There weren't any individuals who stood out audibly or visually.

Attire:
For many collegiate and professional ensembles, the rules are often stated that the men must wear tuxedos and the women must wear something black. I have seen a wide variety of women's styles. Some groups require full sleeves and covered legs and feet. Others do not. For example, I have seen women in sleeveless corset-like tops and others in black ponchos. There is also a wide variety about the definition of black. Women's attire often varies in type of fabric and presence of embellishment. Some women wear sequined sweaters or tops with glitter. Others embellish with jewelry. I am not against the ability to have personal choice for attire. However, the Vienna Philharmonic looked incredibly snazzy and professional. The women were all wearing the same outfit. It was an all black suit of equal quality to the men's matching tuxedos. It took me a long time to find all of the women in the ensemble because everyone matched so well. I really liked how the group was unified visually.

Movement:
Musicians plays their instruments with varying amounts of movement. There are many times when I'm at a concert and my eyes are drawn to the individual who frequently bobs and sways in their seat. I tend to be very still when I perform in a group setting but I can see the advantage of movement. The key is for everyone to move together. This is what the Vienna Philharmonic did. Just as no one stood out visually because of attire, no one stood out with individual movement. Everyone moved together, the entire time. It was easy to see the unison movement of the strings by watching their bows, but the other sections moved together as well. The leader of all of this movement was Maestro Michael Tilson Thomas. WOW! If anyone deserves to be called Maestro, it would be him. He conducted Mahler 5 for memory. Consider that the symphony is about an hour and 15 minutes! Without the obstacle of the stand on the podium, the Maestro moved freely and expressively in front of the orchestra. This is what I love. His graceful and energetic motions instilled even greater passion into the players. As a conductor, he is not a mere time keeper but a leader who educes passionate artistry and sensational music from each player.

Overall thoughts:
Magnificent, outstanding, superb, fantastic, unparalleled, first-rate, top-notch, amazing and inspiring. All of these words describe the concert. The wide dynamic range, the purity of tone, the emotion, the unified look, the unified playing, and the overall beauty made me feel alive. This is why I love music! I hate to say that my feelings for music may fade at times but this concert more than reignited my love...it set my heart ablaze! I had a wonderful time and I feel so honored and blessed to have had the opportunity to attend this performance. I read the following statement on the Vienna Philharmonic website:

The Message of Music
The Vienna Philharmonic has made it its mission to communicate the humanitarian message of music into the daily lives and consciousness of its listeners. In 2005 the Vienna Philharmonic was named Goodwill Ambassador of the World Health Organisation (WHO). The musicians endeavour to implement the motto with which Ludwig von Beethoven, whose symphonic works served as a catalyst for the creation of the orchestra, prefaced his "Missa Solemnis" - "From the heart, to the heart".

Vienna Philharmonic, you have succeeded in your mission because you definitely touched my heart. Thank you!

Here are a few photos from the evening. Enjoy!

Clowns on the Horizon

On Thursday December 4, Dan and I volunteered with the group Bohócok a Láthatáron, Clowns on the Horizon. The group was created by Yvette Feuer, a Fulbright Grantee to the United States in 2003.  The mission of the group is as follows:

"Clowns on the Horizon is a not-for profit group of Hungarian actor-clowns whose mission is to bring joy to and develop the cultural and life of impoverished and marginalized communities all over Hungary. The group was founded in 2010 by Yvette Feuer, actor, clown, drama teacher and child psycho-dramatist.  Our aim is to engender understanding and acceptance between Romany and non-Romany communities, which we accomplish through clowning-based shows, drama workshops and communal programs. These engage children, teachers and parents of both communities to break down conventional attitudes of mutual mistrust and fear by illuminating our shared humanity."

We went with the group to Letkés, a small town (about 1200) on the northern border of Hungary. Actually, the border was so close that our cell phones thought we were in Slovakia. After we arrived at the school we prepared for the performance. The clowns performed in the gymnasium of the elementary school.

After their skit was finished, Dan and I helped with some games for the older students. These included a game where everyone would dance as hard as possible and then freeze when the music stopped. We also made a large conga line to snake around the room. After about 30 minutes of dancing, we, and the kids, were worn out. The school generously provided lunch for us. After lunch, we worked with the younger students. Dan worked with a group of kindergarteners with painting and coloring activities. I worked with a group of second graders. My group was focused on music. Our first activity was a call and response game of various rhythms and sounds.  Next, we gave each of the children small instruments. Then we demonstrated signs for the group to play loud, soft, fast, and slow. Yvette and I took turns conducting the students and then we gave the children the opportunity to conduct. They loved it! Finally, I taught the children an easy American dance, the Bunny Hop. Bunny in Hungarian is nyuszi.  The children had a wonderful day watching the performance and participating in the activities.  My favorite part of the day was seeing the children smiling and laughing. I hope that we can work with the Clowns on the Horizon group again in the spring.

For more information about Clowns on the Horizon, visit their website at
http://www.bohocokalathataron.hu/index.php/en/.

Photography Day!

On Friday December 5, several of the Hungarian Fulbrighters got together to tour the Robert Capa Contemporary Photography Center and the Hungarian House of Photography in Mai Manó House. These two locations are the affiliations of one of the current Fulbrighters, Kelly. Our first stop was the Robert Capa Contemporary Photography Center.  In this building, they offer a variety of exhibits. We first entered a room with photos from a project about Hungarians who have moved to America. I thought these photos were very interesting because they showed how cultures can be blended. Across the hall was a large collection of items shown as the original release and user-modified versions.  Many of these items moved beyond photography to digital projection and virtual reality. For example, they had items such as Google Glass and a Wii compared with the "hack" version where someone has used the same technology for a different purpose. It was a very neat exhibit. Dan and I both wish we could have spent more time exploring everything they had to offer.

Next, we went to the Hungarian House of Photography in Mai Manó House. This building was amazing.

Mai Manó was an important Hungarian photographer of the late eighteenth century and early nineteenth century. His house, shown above, has eight floors, complete with the natural light photography studio (on the third floor with the large windows). The house itself was amazing but the exhibits were even better.  The exhibits included Mai Manó's work plus an collection of new photographs using old techniques.  Kelly also shared her research with us in the library.

Our afternoon photography tour was a wonderful outing! I have never known much about photography but this tour opened my eyes to the history and artistry of it. I hope I can learn more about photography in the future. To conclude, here is a silly picture of me and Dan from the tour. 

Budapest Festival Orchestra

Saturday night (November 29) was an experience that I will never forget. Dan and I went with three other Fulbrighters to see the Budapest Festival Orchestra.  This was not the typical concert.  It was a Saturday night at 11:30pm.  Rather than a concert hall, the performance was in a place called Millenáris Theatrum.  It was more like an open stage theater which would be particularly well suited for a modern dance performance. Seating was first come first serve. The most popular choice were the bean bags spread across the floor and throughout the orchestra. People were sitting in the middle of the orchestra itself! By the time we arrived, all of the bean bags were taken so we sat in the rows of seats found on both ends of the room. We ended up being behind the orchestra. The conductor was Robin Ticciati and the program was Maurice Ravel: Valses nobles et sentimentales and Claude Debussy: La mer.  One of the benefits from sitting behind the orchestra was seeing the conductor's face.  I have never heard of Robin Ticciati before but I enjoyed his style and facial expressions. As someone who is usually in the orchestra, I have seen a wide variety of conductors and I think Mr. Ticciati's style worked well.

The atmosphere was very casual. The audience and the orchestra were wearing street clothes.  In the lobby, you could purchase drinks and snacks to bring into the concert with you. Many people were drinking wine in plastic cups and we saw a couple of people eating sandwiches.

I am glad that I went to this concert because it has made me reconsider my thoughts as both a performer and an audience member. I realize that every business field looks for innovation to keep promoting their product.  In some of my music classes, we have discussed the routes some orchestras are choosing to take.  The Budapest Festival Orchestra is experimenting with unconventional time and setting, and it is working for them. The theater was packed with people. It was also perhaps the youngest audience I have seen at a concert (not including children's concerts). Most everyone around us seemed to be in the 18-30 age group.  They also used an unconventional seating arrangement and tickets.  Giving people a chance to sit anywhere they like offers new sound experiences and contact with the performers. It breaks down the audience/performer divide.  They also broke down any sort of audience divide by pricing all tickets at 1500 HUF (about $6).

The concert was a success, but every concert in the evolution of orchestra performances has both pros and cons.  This concert was sold out to a very young crowd. I cannot think of any concert that I've seen in the US that was sold out or had a young audience. Clearly the Budapest Festival Orchestra is doing something right. On the other hand, I question the means that led to this success because I know that I was distracted through most of the concert. The distractions ranged from the sound of bean bags rustling to seeing a couple making out. People were drinking, whispering, sleeping, and taking photos with their phones. Just the fact that the orchestra was wearing street clothes made me feel like I was sitting in on a rehearsal.  I hate to say that I went to a concert and I can't remember the music, but that's almost how I feel.  Luckily, the value of the performance do not rest solely on my experience or opinion.

Let me make it clear that the music was great. The orchestra played extremely well. In particular, I recall the sound of the English horn. I'm inclined to focus my attention on the brass instruments so I was pleasantly surprised to be caught off guard by the beautiful tone of the English horn player. On a side note, here in Hungary the programs do not include a personnel list. I cannot tell you who was playing the English horn, only that his or her tone was heavenly.

Yet the question remains in my mind, how can we be innovative with our promotion and performance of instrumental music? The answer is something that we are still seeking through trial and error. My suggestion is that we work on strengthening our product rather than placing it in a new container or giving it a fresh coat of paint. I hope our goal as a music community is to continue to show that our art is culturally relevant, historically important, aesthetically pleasing, emotionally engaging, and intellectually sufficient by always performing with the utmost intention, professionalism, and unity of heart and mind. Let's move people with our music! The music is, and always should be, more powerful than location, attire, refreshments, and price. Let's keep it that way.

Hidas Visit

Earlier this week, Dan and I had a bit of free time so we went to see where Hidas lived. On the outside of his apartment building, there is a nice plaque in his honor.  It is fun to think about his life here in Budapest and to visit places like this where he lived and worked.  I hope that my research will shed more light on his life and work. 

"In this house lived and worked Hidas Frigyes, the last Hungarian romantic composer (1928-2007). In his wondrous melodies shall he live forever."

December!

Here it is December and I still can't believe how fast time is going. This last week flew by especially fast. Now we'll be through December before we know it.  I wanted to share a few updates about our time here. I apologize that I've been getting behind with my posts.

First, the gas in our apartment is back on! We are set for winter with our heat, hot water, and stove. We are so grateful to have it back. In the past few days, the temperature has dropped quite a bit. Hopefully we might be seeing a little snow soon. Currently the weather is hovering just above freezing so we're only seeing rain. Although it is gloomy outside, we're staying cozy inside.  I'm especially enjoying my Advent calendar which I just started today!

My research is going well but I'm still adjusting to the schedule. The hardest thing is the frequent fluctuation. Some days produce great findings and others do not.  I can plan to research but I cannot plan the results. Also, my schedule fluctuates with each lesson and volunteer opportunity. New events require more time planning for travel and finding the locations.  I look forward to the time when I can have a fairly regular schedule again.

On November 19, I took part in International Education week. The Fulbright Commission and EducationUSA were hosting an informational event about studying in the United States. I represented my 4 universities (Missouri State, Kansas, Illinois State, and Iowa) and answered questions. It was interesting to hear the concerns that Hungarian students have about college. They were not too different from the concerns of American students. Everyone I talked to was excited at the possibility of attending college or graduate school in the US.  I am grateful to have had this opportunity to meet Hungarian students and help answer their questions.

Finally, I wanted to share some thoughts on shopping. Dan and I have been to many of the malls in Budapest, searching for a new dress outfit that is also warm. I have had a tough time. First, any sizes which I may have known are now gone.  Even when I find clothes that say S, M, or L, they are set to a different standard. Also, the current trends in Budapest are different than what I would typically wear.  Some of the items we keep seeing are ponchos and jumpsuits and one of the most common fabrics is leather. I typically had a hard time shopping for clothes in the US but it is much harder in Budapest.  I will just keep trying.  I have found a few items and I hope to complete an outfit soon.

Thanksgiving!

On Thanksgiving, a group of the Fulbrighters in Hungary gathered to celebrate Thanksgiving.  For Dan and I, it was our first time away from home and family for the holiday.  We were so grateful for this chance to gather with friends.  One the Fulbright professors hosted at her lovely apartment overlooking the Danube.  She has an amazing view! There was turkey, stuffing, imported cranberry sauce, and mashed potatoes.  Dan and I decided to challenge ourselves to bring 3 dishes. After scouring the internet for dishes we could make with the ingredients we have here, we made 3 vegetable sides.  Four hours of hard work later, we had orange-ginger carrots, garlic parmesan zucchini, and bacon wrapped sweet potato fries. Everything turned out well. The bacon wrapped sweet potatoes were the favorite. We also enjoyed 3 desserts. One Fulbrighter made apple/pear crisp...yum! A Hungarian student of our host brought a chocolate and coconut banana bread. And finally, our angel and Fulbright wonderwoman, Annamaria, brought a homemade pumpkin pie. It was a wonderful dinner! We couldn't have asked for a more perfect Thanksgiving in Hungary. This year and every year to come with include my thanks for receiving the Fulbright. This has been an amazing experience! I'm excited to see what the next 6 months have in store!

Iszom Coke (I drink Coke).

In Hungary, there are many things to drink. Drinks are called üdítő. Hungary's most famous drinks are probably all alcohol (wines, palinka, unicum). My favorites are non alcoholic drinks...usually the sweetest ones. I love the variety of lemonades available. My favorite is elderberry lemonade. I'm not quite sure how to describe it but it is delicious. There are even various flavors of milk. The other day, Dan and I tried caramel milk. I suggested we microwave it and put hot chocolate mix in it. That was one of my better ideas. It tasted great. There are a variety of pops as well. Almost everywhere serves Coke. Diet Coke is called Coca-cola Light here. They also have Coke Zero. The grocery stores have some Pepsi but not much and only a few restaurants serve Pepsi. Let me make it clear that when I say they serve Coke or Pepsi, they only serve Coke or Pepsi. They don't serve the other products made by Coke or Pepsi. No Sprite, Sierra Mist, Moutain Dew, etc. We've tried several flavors of the Schweppes brand of pop. I think they are very unique. My favorite has been the Lemon Mint. I also enjoy the flavors of Fanta. In my opinion, the Peach Mango is the best flavor of Fanta.

For those who want to warm up, there are many opportunities to drink coffee or tea. I prefer tea. During orientation week, I had my first taste of fruit tea. Now I'm hooked. This kind of tea is all fruit flavor, not a black or green tea with fruit flavoring. My first cup was at a restaurant and it looked like a hot glass of bright red Kool-aid. It was sweet, fruity, and perfect. Sometimes I add a little extra sugar and it's even better.

The other main drink of choice for us is water. At home we drink a lot of water because it's safe to drink right out of the sink.  It's clean and it tastes great.

As a picture for today, I wanted to share this Christmas tree. We saw this at the West End Mall near Nyugati train station in Budapest. The entire tree is Coke. Coke ribbons and Coke cans as the ornaments. It was neat to see but it was another reminder of the prominence of Coke.

Karácsony!

December 25 is over a month away but I'm already doing a countdown to Karácsony! Karácsony is Christmas in Hungarian. I've already started listening to some Christmas music while I'm getting ready in the morning. During the next few weeks, I will be doing some research in my free time about Hungarian Christmas music. I did a quick search tonight and I've already found many new songs. I'll be sure to post what I learn along the way. In the meantime, here are some traditional Christmas songs that Americans know, sung in Hungarian. Enjoy!

November Fulbright Adventure

I cannot fully express how wonderful the Hungarian Fulbright Commission is.  In addition to our orientation back at the beginning of September, they host monthly events for us.  In September we went to Szentendre and Visegrad.  In October we went to Eger. (See my previous posts for more information).  Dan and I are incredibly grateful for these events.  They are opportunities to travel Hungary, visit the best sights, meet the scholars and innovators of Hungary, and spend some time with the other Fulbright students and scholars. Everyone loves our monthly events.  On Friday, we visited the Aquincum Institute of Technology and the Aquincum Museum.

The Aquincum Institute of Technology (AIT) is part of a large business park (Graphisoft Park) on the north side of Budapest.  The campus is beautiful.  When the area was developed, they put the parking garage underground.  This way, the businesses and AIT are surrounded by beautiful landscapes and sculptures.  It is a lovely area right next to the Danube.  After we arrived, we attended a presentation by Gábor Bojár, the founder of Graphisoft and AIT.  He was inspiring as he spoke about the development of his company and the institute.  Just like Graphisoft, we can use our own strengths to develop our unique value and function in the world.  He also explained his business ideal of designing products and services for the customer. At one point in his presentation, he touched on the development of new software.  Most new software that is developed is never used because the products are not tailored to customers.  He believes that many products are designed in an effort to prove oneself to peers.  I think this happens in all fields but I can personally see this happening in music.  Mr. Bojár's presentation gave me a lot to think about in regards to how I will use my skills and share music with the world.  Even though I don't study computer software, I wish I could have him as a teacher.  If you know anyone studying computer science or software engineering, have them look into the Aquincum Institute of Technology. It is designed for American students studying abroad. I highly recommend it!

After the presentation, we walked around Graphisoft Park. We saw buildings for companies like Microsoft, Graphisoft, SAP and Canon. As Gábor Bojár shared in his presentation, Steve Jobs was crucial to the success of Graphisoft. Since Steve Jobs' passing, a statue has been erected in his honor in front of the Graphisoft building. Here are pictures of me and Dan with the statue.

In the afternoon, we went to the Aquincum Museum.  In the 2nd Century, Aquincum was a Roman city in what is now Budapest.  We visited the outdoor ruins of the city and the museum protecting some of the most valuable artifacts.  Walking around the ruins, we learned about the life of the people. They had a marketplace to buy food and other products.  We went to the public bath and toilet areas and we even saw one of their outdoor amphitheaters.

My favorite part was the museum.  One of the neatest artifacts found in these ruins was an small organ! We saw the original pieces as well as a replica built at the beginning of the 20th century. They said that the organ was even used to help keep guards awake!

We also enjoyed the beautiful mosaics, jewelry, and sculptures.  This first picture shows glass items such as plates, pitchers, and bowls.

This jewelry was incredibly beautiful! It still has its charm today. Most of the Fulbright girls said we would wear this jewelry today.

This mosaic was one of several that we saw in the museum and out in the ruins.  The mosaics are special because they were expensive and they required a great deal of time and artistry. I can't imagine how they designed them. Did they make a drawing first and then try to make it with tiles or did they start with the tiles?

It was hard to believe that we were still in Budapest for this trip.  Graphisoft Park and the ruins of Aquincum are nothing like the rest of the city. It made for a special day that we won't forget.  Dan and I are looking forward to our December Fulright event at the Parliament! 

Hungarian Lessons

I believe that I mentioned a few posts back that I was going to be starting Hungarian lessons. I have had a few lessons now and I love them.  I really enjoy learning languages and Hungarian is no exception.  My lessons are fast paced and since I'm the only student, I get plenty of opportunities to speak.  Before I came to Budapest, I had been mostly studying on my own.  Two summers ago, I worked with a Hungarian gentleman who lived near me. Then all of last year I worked with my tutor, Zsolt. Now my lessons are taking me to the next level. I have a lot of translating, reading, and interviewing to do this year. After just a few lessons, I feel much more confident about my abilities. Maybe my next post will be in Hungarian! ;)

Everyday Food

I've been so busy this past week that I'm behind on my blog posts! Today I wanted to share some information about the food we eat every day.  At home, my personal routine might involve a granola bar in the morning, a sandwich for lunch, and warm meal for supper.  Since we've been in Budapest, we have tried new foods in various restaurants. Perhaps the most interesting is what we've learned to make at home.  The grocery stores do have many options but it is impossible to cook in the same way.

For breakfast we have usually been eating cereal or BelVita breakfast biscuits. For the last two weeks without gas, we have been eating a lot of sandwiches.  Our sandwiches begin with these really good rolls. In every grocery store, there are bins of various rolls. We get these plain white ones that are bigger than a typical American hamburger bun. Depending on the store, each roll costs between 15-25 forints. That's 6-10 cents. Needless to say, we buy rolls at the store every time we go. The meat and cheese choices are nothing like in the US. We buy sliced cheese in these packets which include maybe 6 slices. It doesn't take long for us to go through them.  I haven't taken the time to translate all of the names of the cheeses but cheddar is not an option.  Most all cheeses are a white or very light yellow color. For meat, we use salami. Every time. Besides salami the only other typical choice is bologna.  Some salami is a little more spicy than others but they all have a similar taste.  I like it.  So our typical sandwich is salami and cheese on a roll. Occasionally we put pickles on the sandwiches as well.

Our other main staple is soup. At the store, we can buy soup packets in various flavors.  All you have to do is add 1 liter of water and heat it. It's easy and we like it.  Dan and I like to doctor the soups.  We cut up carrots, potatoes, peppers, tomatoes, and onion and add them to the soup.  Sometimes we add rice or extra noodles. Each time is a different and we can often get 4-6 meals out of each soup we make.

Besides soup and sandwiches we have made salami and vegetables or pasta.  One of the interesting flavors we have had in our pasta is the meat.  At the grocery store, ground beef is rare. Instead have used ground pork and ground turkey in our pasta sauce. It tastes good but it's new flavor for sure.

We still have several months to try new foods here in Hungary but I hope this gives you an idea of what we eat every day.

Going with the Flow

At home, I had never lived in a home or apartment that used gas.  I'm used to all electric appliances.  Our apartment here in Budapest uses gas for heating, water, and the stove.  During our first week, it took us a while to figure out how to light the stove and the oven. Luckily we can buy a large quantity of matches because sometimes it still takes a few tries.  The water heater also uses gas to heat the water in cycles.  When you turn on the hot water, the heater will turn on to heat the water right then.  In the shower, it creates a little bit of a cycle between hot water and warm-ish water.  It's not too bad though. Finally, our heat is also generated by gas.  Our apartment has 5 radiators which circulate hot water from the water heater.

Just when we thought we had figured out how to use everything we have had to start over. For the past week, we have been without gas.  It is a new adventure in itself.  We are very fortunate that our landlord brought us some electric space heaters and more blankets.  For the kitchen he brought us an electric hot plate and a little pitcher that heats water.  It's all enough to get by.  Yet we can't wait until we can have hot water for the shower.  That is definitely the thing we miss most.  Yesterday, we watched the gas company work in our apartment.  They came to take down our gas meter last Monday.  Yesterday they were changing out the pipes.  There were several men who each performed a specific job.  One man came in to cut the pipes, another came to pull them down, and another came to fuse on the new ones.  He had a large flame thrower/torch which was actually pretty scary looking.  After the new pipes were attached, a fourth man came to paint the pipes white.  Although we have been working on Hungarian, we don't have the vocabulary specific to gas maintenance.  So we don't know exactly what is going on.  We do know that the entire building is without gas and that we won't have it back for at least another week.  We are very grateful to still have electricity.  I don't know what we would do without it.  This experience so far has given me some perspective on what I can and cannot live without.   We are doing fine but we will appreciate the return of our heat, hot water, and stove.

Library Differences

I must admit that I have been spoiled.  I cannot use the libraries here in Hungary in the same way as at home.  It has been a learning experience.

At home, I have access to hundreds of online databases.  I can listen to music (NAXOS, DRAM, Alexander Street Music). I can access countless sources through Oxford Music Online, JSTOR, RILM, RIPM, Music Index, and ProQuest Dissertations and Theses.  When I go to the library, I can look at almost all of the books in person.  As a graduate student, I can check books out for 1 year and media for 1 month.  For the books which I cannot check out, I am able to scan the crucial passages or copy them at the copy machine.

Since I am no longer enrolled in school at home, I have lost all of my library privileges.  I can no longer access any of the online material.  This has been a change because the libraries here do not subscribe to any of the databases I can access at home. At the National Library, the books are kept in a separate storage area.  I cannot browse the materials nor check them out.  Every item (except basic reference) must be requested. One of the issues I have had so far is that there is a limited amount of space where one can access wifi in the library.  It is not in the Music Collection.  So, I've been searching the internet like mad at our apartment to make lists of everything I need at the library.  Even this is not inclusive.  The journals, magazines and newspapers that I need either do not have a searchable database or they are only searchable by title and/or author.  Unfortunately, articles which discuss Hidas do not all have his name in the title. The task at hand is to flip through every journal and newspaper necessary to find all of the information I need.

The good news is that there is information out there and I will find it.  It will be tedious but extremely rewarding.  Some of these parts of the research are not glamorous but they are the most educational.

Trumpet Concert

On Monday evening, I went to the "Concerto Heavy Metal" concert presented by Concerto Budapest at the Budapest Music Center.  Besides being a great opportunity to hear brass music, this concert had a specific draw because it included the Hidas Trumpet Fantasy.  So far, this has been the only concert I have found with Hidas' music.  I don't know that I can explain my excitement!  This was the program:

Benjamin Britten: Fanfar
Georg Friedrich Händel: D-dúr szvit
Johann Sebastian Bach: d-moll kettősverseny
Antonio Vivaldi: C-dúr kettősverseny
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Hidas Frigyes: Trombitafantázia
Zarándy Ákos: Spürst Du Mein Herz?
Zarándy Ákos: Breath Metal Ballad

The first half of the program was traditional and quite lovely.  The Hidas Trumpet Fantasy was the perfect start to the second half.  The Trumpet Fantasy lasts about 7 minutes but it includes several shifts in character. The opening is a dramatic section with a cadenza-like freedom.  Next is a lively rhythmic section.  It is this section where I can hear similarities to the first movement of Hidas' Horn Concerto. After a lyrical andante section, the remainder of the piece is a fast dance which reminds me of a tarantella. Here is a recording that I found online for you to enjoy.

 

The trumpet player at the concert I attended was Gábor Devecsai from Concerto Budapest. I think he did an excellent job of contrasting the various sections of the piece.  Mr. Devecsai performed on a rotary valve trumpet.  It was interesting for me to hear this instrument in a solo context.  I hope to hear this piece live again someday.

All Saint's Day

Yesterday was All Saint's Day, a public holiday in Hungary.  Dan and I visited Kerepesi Cemetery, one of the oldest cemeteries in Hungary.  Let me first say that the experience was nothing like the video I found and posted on Friday.  The main reason is that the video showed a different cemetery.  Kerepesi Cemetery is enormous.  We went around 5pm when it is already dark outside.  There was also a light fog through the city.  The darkness and the fog in the large cemetery made it difficult to see and navigate.  Honestly, the atmosphere was creepy but we weren't scared because the mood of the people was clearly honor and respect. The cemetery was filled with people.  We saw families and people of all ages visiting the graves and paying their respects.  I read online that the Kerepesi Cemetery does not take new burials. However, we're not sure if that is exactly true.  We went to several areas that appeared to be monuments.  In each section, there was an arc-shaped patio with several large stones listing people and their dates.  There were no signs explaining why the people were listed together.  All of the names had death dates since 2000 and we even saw the section from 2014. We stopped at a few graves which had enough candles to actually read the name. We saw the grave for Blaha Lujza.  We recognized the name because we often go to the metro stop "Blaha Lujza tér." This morning, I learned that Blaha Lujza was a famous female actress. She performed at the National Theater which used to be located at what is now Blaha Lujza tér.  Frigyes Hidas was music director at that same theater from 1951-1966. The building has since been destroyed. Dan and I were remembering Hidas during our walk yesterday. It would have been neat to visit his grave and pay our respects but his ashes were spread in Lake Balaton. Hopefully, we can visit the lake before we leave Hungary.

Another thing we noticed during our walk were the married names.  One of the old traditions for Hungarian women was to completely give up their name. It's just as if I chose to be known only as Mrs. Daniel Small.  For example, if the man's name was Kovács István, the wife would be Kovács Istvánné.  The "né" signifies the "Mrs." We saw these pairs of names in several parts of the cemetery.

The grave of Blaha Lujza.

One of the arcades of Kerepesi Cemetery.

A unique grave.

This is a close-up of one of the corners from the previous picture.

Some of the monuments with lists of names.

Another similar monument area.

People lighting candles and leaving flowers.